They got electrical problems, what a surprise theyre building them in mexico and they have electrical problems, what a shocker theyre, not delivering them, but heres the joke from ford. This is the bs that these corporations put out heres a clarification that ford sent out. Please note: this is not a stop. Sale dealer can still sell the car. They just cant, deliver it to the customer. Now, if that means theyre not selling them, i dont know what does turns out that one of these main power connectors on a giant electric wires, isnt right and they can heat up and fuse. You use all that power its like welding. You know anything about welding. One of the easiest ways to weld is electric welding. You get a stick and a giant transformer. You put the negative on the metal and when you touch the stick, it melts thats. How stick welding works right? Well, this things going to stick weld itself together because they didnt build them right in mexico. What a shocker theyre paying these people peanuts in mexico? What do they think will happen? I dont know exactly what fords paying, because they dont want to give out the information, but i looked at the gm data and some of their factories. These guys are making 6.85 cents not an hour for an entire 12 hour day. They get 6.85. Well guess what they end up: making crap theyre all built in mexico? Well, guess what you pay peanuts! What do you get you get nutty cars that arent built right turns out that the primary high voltage connectors can overheat and then fuse on, and you understand that can also create fires and it could be every single one theyve made so far now ford says they Dont expect to have a fix for this problem until the third quarter of 2022.

. They built them, they dont even know how to fix them. Well, actually, they probably do know how to fix them, but it costs them so much money, theyre, probably looking for a cheaper way to fix it. Theyre always looking for band aids well tape over this thats, what they did in some of the times of the past. When i was young, we had a car with a gm car and the motor mounts would break and the way the old cars were designed. Then the motor would fall down hit the ground, so their solution was they didnt put new motor mounts on. They put a chain around the motor mount. So if it fell, it wouldnt hit the ground, and that was the recall. Just stick a chain on each one takes five minutes away. They went, save them a bunch of money, you stole it a crappy car with motor mounts it wouldnt break and then youd have to go, get it fixed later, but it wouldnt make the engine hit the ground that was their fix and fords. Obviously, looking for a cheap fix now tyler hawaii says i got a 2000 lexus with a knock sensor code. I replaced both knock sensors and the car wont shift in the fifth gear and the code stays realize one thing: first, you got ta use, lexus, toyota original equipment, manufacturer the oem knock sensors. You get some cheap chinese ones, they probably wont work, make sure youre using the right ones.

But if you are – and it keeps doing that then either you have a short and a wiring between the sensors and the computer or the driver circuits in the computer are broken. So theyre not working to get the information from the knock sensors and the code for the knock censorship, in which case you would need a brand new computer. So youre going to need a guy like me, with a dealer level scan tool to do bi, directional testing to see. Is it sending the power to the sensors? Are the sensor sending the power back? Get an ohm meter check the wiring? Maybe the wires are corroded or worn, especially you might want to go to the computer and unplug the giant morass of wires. They just pull out look inside, maybe theres green corrosion. You can spray it with spray electrical cleaner, get the green corrosion put on that might fix it. Ive seen them get corroded club tropicana says i got a transmission thump on a jeep grand cherokee with 165 000 miles from dealer to pick up next week. The transmission thumps, when you shift into reverse and sometimes in the drive they said they tightened the mount. That would correct. Is there something wrong with the transmission? Well, it depends youre going to pick it up right, say: im not paying for it until i road test it if it still thumps. That means its inside the transmission that will often clunk, but if its motor mount had either come loose or was broken and they tighten it up or replace and it doesnt thump its a very simple fix, its just rubber the mount with metal on each end.

When the rubber rips clunk clunk right, so if the clunk is gone great, now the clunks still there, that would mean its internal to the transmission, because the only thing that makes them clunk, like that part, reverse reverse drive – is either the motor mounts are worn and When you get into gear motor and transmission clunk, because the mounts are broken or internal wear in the transmission that the shafts are clunking, when you go from reverse to driving apart before you buy it road test it if the clunks gone, they fixed it, if not Its internal to the transmission dont pay for anything. Yet until you drive it uncle marlin says i have a scraping noise when i make a left turn only when my air conditioning is on got no 7 accord for some odd reason, when the ac is on low. A scraping noise occurs when i make a left turn only on left turns, and only when the compressor is running. Your compressor has a pulley. The fan belt runs the pulley right now that just spins freely. Until you turn on the ac, then theres electricity in the electromagnet and that pulls the clutch in and then the outside of the clutch spins, if its only making the noise. When you turn the ac on only when you make a left turn odds are something is scraping against the end of the compressor. The clutch end, because the only difference between having the ac on and off is when its off that clutch end is just sitting there.

Its not spinning the pulley is but the end isnt since thats, not spinning. You take a turn. You dont get any noise, but then, when its spinning youre turning into noise when youre turning it the end is rubbing against something look in there. That might be a rubber panel thats coming off or some wiring or something somethings rubbing on it when its on and not when its off and the only difference between off and on is the very end of it. The end of the clutch is going to be rubbing against something so and when you take a turn, its moving things around wiring harness or a piece of plastic ones, probably looseness rubbing against it. I see that all the time papaya says should i buy one of these cars: a 2018 honda, civic sport, 2004, toyota corolla s with 16 000 miles, 2020, corolla, se a dealership or 2013 subaru impreza. Of course it all depends on the price and what you want? A 2004 corolla s if it really only has 16 000 miles, youll get a better price because its an older car, you like the corolla, get it the honda civics are excellent. Cars too depends on the price and the mileage youre picking good cars theres nothing wrong. Im, not a big subaru fan, so i would not buy the subaru im, not a big fan of them, but between the corolla and the civic theyre, both excellent cars. Theyre all used cars, trust new one make sure its a clean title make sure you get a mechanic like me to check it out before you buy, because it could be rack flooded, stolen.

You know the history of a car and things like carfax are a joke. Uh they cant access lots of information. Ive had people have cars that have been wrecked three times and the carfax says. According to our information, this car has never been in a wreck and its been totaled three times because i knew the history of the car. So you cant believe any of that crap thats a bunch of nonsense, its just paperwork. You need a mechanic who knows what hes doing to actually check the crap out and theyll. Tell you whether theyre good cars or not dont buy any of them without a mechanic. Checking out because the toyota crawler has been flooded a wreck, it can be a bad car. You dont know until mechanic checks it out for you, jayce2k says my car wont stay on why its an o3 ford escape six cylinder. Every time i switch to drive it shuts off and no air comes from the ac vents. I accidentally tore a vacuum hose from a solenoid. I cant find that hose its two combined to one. I dont know how it was connected. All right. Well, thats your problem. You got a vacuum leak now see you say: no air comes from the ac vents. Only defrost. If you have a massive vacuum leak on that old car, an o3 escape the vacuum helps run. The ac system buy fail, safe methods. If you lose the vacuum pressure, it will only do defrost and thats.

All yours is doing only your defrost because thats the position that, if everythings broken it automatically reverts to defrost only so people dont get in wrecks, because if your window fogs up you cant see so at least you got your window defogged on thats how theyre made So you do have a vacuum leak find that hose find where it goes youre going to places like autozone. They will print you up a vacuum diagram of every vacuum line on the car, but you should be able to hear it when you start the car up. Youre going to hear something something sucking or if you cant get some spray anything and when you get to where the hole the hose is, the idle will start getting functioning, hurt it, but itll change the idle. Then look right there and youll see the hoses there find where it plugs in or if push comes to shove, get a screw and screw it in the hole. So it doesnt suck air anymore. So you wont have problems, but you have a vacuum leak because of that somewhere under there theres a leak find it see where you work. Theres got to be a place where it plugs in and if you cant figure that out – and you can put your finger on the hose its sucking air – you put it on, it – stops sucking just plug it with a screw. For the time being, then go to a mechanic like me and well figure out exactly where it goes, but you could plug it with a screw.

It starts idling. Okay, you keep driving it that way, so no car its an old three. I mean in some places in o3 you dont even need to get emissions inspected anymore, so you dont have to worry about all that crap, the classic cadillac says. Should i be concerned about ethanol or lead on an early 70s car? I got a 70 mercury marquee with a 429 v8. Now. What should i do? If you have the regular gasoline that people sell, it says contains 10 percent ethanol? This is may contain. That means it does they put additives in so that little bit of alcohol doesnt bother older cars. Your main problem is you got a 70 marquee with a 429 v8. That thing was basically made to run on high test gasoline. You run a lower test gasoline. You might get a little bit of knocking, i mean if it runs okay, thats. Okay, now, as for the lead versus no lead well, lead was a lubricant, but now they have various other things to lubricate thats, not a particular problem. You dont have to worry about that, because you can only buy unleaded gas now anyway, so it doesnt matter. You have no choice. A little bit of 10 ethanol thats in normal gasoline shouldnt hurt it at all because chemists and engineers that work theyre not idiots. They figured out how to stabilize that ethanol mixed with the 90 percent gasoline, now, never never ever think about putting e85 ethanol in that thing, thats 85 percent ethanol and 15 gasoline that would destroy all the rubber, but the regular gasoline shouldnt bother it at all.